Previous Questions
Judy asked: We have a 2003 Toyota Camry LE that has been serviced on a regular basis. On Thursday my Check Engine light came on while driving down the highway. Pulled car off road, checked car manual. Manual stated that Check Engine Light can come on if gas tank is empty, gas tank cap is loose or could be problem with throttle. Gas tank was below 1/4 of tank so I filled the gas tank. Car does not drive any different than before the Check Engine light came on, but the Check Engine light remains on. When I went to fill the gas tank I noticed an object was lodged in the emergency brake area - could this have triggered the Check Engine Light? If I need to bring my car to your shop, what is the initial cost for doing a checkup/diagnostic on the toyota?
The Auto Tech: Hi Judy. You are very wise to stop and read the manual. One of the most disappointing experiences we can have here at the shop is to have a vehicle towed-in with serious damage because someone ignored a warning light and continued to drive their car. Now about the whole gas cap issue; In 1996 the government became concerned about raw fuel vapor escaping into the atmosphere and laws were enacted which made it mandatory for new vehicles to have a built-in monitoring system that would occasionally check the security of the fuel system. This system is smart enough to know if you've inadvertently left the fuel cap loose or off altogether and it switches the "Check Engine" light on to alert you of the problem. Typically however, once you check and tighten the cap, the system should then recognize that the problem has been solved and the light will go off. With all of that said, there are still a great number of different potential failures in the computer system that will cause an illumination of the warning light and since your light is still on, there's something else wrong. You don't "feel" anything wrong because the system is effective enough and compensates well enough that it seems fairly normal. DON'T LET THIS STOP YOU FROM GETTING IT FIXED! Greater damage can occur to other components if the problem is ignored indefinitely, and although we make our living by repairing/servicing cars we sure prefer not to repair things that might have been preventable! Oh and no, trinkets stuck in the parking brake area will not cause the light to come on. As for cost, well I don't think it wise to discuss that here. If I were to say it would be 40 bucks then the next person who reads this might assume that would cover all diagnostics regardless of complexity. If I said 200 bucks then someone might assume it's too much without understanding each situation is different. What I CAN tell you is that we purchase and employ the best equipment and best people that we can find. Ours are experienced, career-minded, ASE certified technicians that are expensive, but highly skilled. We find it's better, less stressful for everyone, AND less costly to have a highly skilled technician diagnose problems quickly and correctly than it is to have a lesser-skilled mechanic take shots at it! If you'd like, please feel free to give our service desk a call and we'll see if we can help you with it. Thanks for writing!
Kathy asked: I'm thinking about buying a used Audi but I've heard they require a great deal of maintenance which can be quite spendy. Can a mechanic check the car before I buy and identify potential future problems?
The Auto Tech: Hi Kathy, and thanks for the question. I could go into a lengthy speech about European vs Asian vs Domestic vehicle maintenance costs, but since I service ALL different vehicles I sure don't want to draw comparisons that might inflame some diehard brand-loyal customers! Besides, the truth of the matter is that all breeds are becoming much more complicated and costly to service, so it'd be hard to find much separation between them anymore. I think the real beauty of your question is the second half where you ask if it can be checked before you buy and the answer is a loud, hearty, resounding YES! The very best bang-for-the-buck that can be had is in having a "Pre-Purchase Inspection" done on any used vehicle BEFORE you commit to buying it. As soon as I write this I know that used-car salesmen the world over will assume I'm accusing them of fraud, but that isn't my intention at all. The truth of the business is that most of them really don't know much about what they're selling. They get a car that comes to them as a trade-in, and they sell it. Simple as that. If something bad was concealed when they got it, it's probably still concealed when you get it. How to avoid disaster? Get it checked first! We recently inspected three different cars for one of our regular customers just to find one good one to buy. Yes that cost them a few bucks, but it saved them a small fortune in avoided repairs! I hope this helps Kathy. If you like the Audi, have a reputable shop in your area inspect it thoroughly and then buy the darned thing if it checks out. The real cost of ownership is then up to you after that... get it checked by a certified technician 2-3 times per year and have all the regular maintenance done on schedule. Those steps are your best assurance against trouble down the road.
Gil asked: I took my Ford Expedition to a dealer for repair. I don't drive it very much, but happen to take it to work one day and about half way there it started to misfire. I put an analyser on it and found that #5 cylinder was the problem and I determined that it was either the coil and or the plug. The dealer is now recommending a fuel injector flush and replacement of all the spark plugs (quoting about $500 to perform). My question is injector flushing really necessary? I use Chevron gas 100% of the time so I'm having trouble understanding why the flush would be neccesary. Is this a standard service requirement for this vehicle? I can't find this requirement on any of the Ford web sites, including this dealer's. The other concern I have is that while searching the web, I found that Ford trucks are notorious for blowing plugs out of the cylinder heads. In looking at the location of the rear plugs, I can see why. I'm not sure what tool or method be used to remove and replace the two plugs against the firewall. I take an annual group golf trip to the desert each April and the last thing I want to do is have a plug blow out of the cylinder. Can you offer some advice? Regards, Gil
The Auto Tech: Sure I can offer advice Gil, but I'm awful glad you didn't ask for "good" advice! Seriously though, you've asked some great questions and I'll do my best to answer them. No, you won't find fuel injector cleaning in Ford service recommendations. Interestingly, GM (who is in cahoots with Chevron) does describe the need for injector cleaning in several of their Technical Service Bulletins. This need stems from some of their early-design fuel injectors that were prone to plugging up. Chrysler has had a terrible time with some of their fuel systems too. We could go into a long discussion of the how's and why's of fuel deposits and carbon buildup on injectors, but for the sake of space suffice it to say that fuel injectors do become restricted over time and occasional cleaning is still a good idea. Now this brings us to the other things we should discuss which are the possible causes of your misfire problem and what should be done about it. You are correct when you suggest the spark plugs and/or ignition coils as the most likely cause of the misfire. This is an area where Ford has been weak for quite some time... the 4.6/5.4 liter engine family has weak ignition coils and downright poorly designed cylinder heads. It seems that Ford made the cylinder head castings too thin in the area of the spark plugs and the threads are very weak as a result. When the plugs are removed for the first time often the threads are partially or completely seized and become badly damaged as the plugs are removed. Screw a new plug into the damaged threads and try to drive it... POP! Not good. The answer is to have an experienced, CAUTIOUS technician replace the spark plugs. When we change plugs on the newer Fords we soak the area with penetrant and work the plugs slowly back/forth in their threads all the way out. It takes forever (not really, but it sure seems like it) but is absolutely necessary to avoid damage. As for the injector cleaning, since I'm not the guy testing it I can't say for sure whether you "need" it, but I can tell you that it won't hurt and it will bring back some power and snap to the throttle that will make the rig fun to drive again and will really impress your friends on the way to the golf course! I hope this has been helpful. Let me know how it goes, ok?
Renee asked: My Nissan Sentra 2003 GXE 1.8 Liter will not start due to last weeks cold temps. I have a crank but no spark. I removed the plugs and put them back in. Still no spark. Any ideas for me?
The Auto Tech: Hi Renee, That's a good one... Let me give it a try; You say you have "no spark"... Are you certain there is truly no spark energy to the spark plugs, or is that an assumption on your part since it won't run? If you've used some testing method (screw driver in the end of a plug wire, or an actual "spark tester") to check for spark and find that you have none, then there's really not much we can do without testing the ignition system manually. You may have a bad coil, bad ignition module, bad distributor, ignition switch, etc, etc. To find which item is at fault will take some time and expertise in this case. If your statement of no spark is only an assumption however, then the possibilities are still numerous, but there might be something we can try before we give up and have the vehicle towed to a shop. An occasional issue that seems to be inherant to Nissans is a fuel flooding of the cylinders that happens primarily in cold weather. This flooding results in fouled spark plugs and a no-start condition that only becomes worse and more difficult to reverse the longer you attempt to crank and start the car. The reasons how/why this happens are somewhat complex and would be difficult to put in an understandable way in this forum, but let's see if we can get your car running anyway; You said you've removed the plugs once already? Well let's do it again and have a good look at them. Are they visibly wet and/or black in color on the ends? Either of these conditions are indications of flooding. If so you can do one of two things; One, install a fresh set of plugs. Or two, clean the original ones using an automotiive spray cleaner (carburetor cleaner works well for this) and put them back in. Now when you attempt to start the car, hold the throttle pedal all the way to the floor while you're cranking the engine. If it starts and then seems to run normally, we've found the problem. If so, take it to your favorite shop and ask them to clean the throttle body. They'll know what I'm talking about. If they don't, you need to find another favorite shop! The short explanation is that your throttle body has an excessive amount of carbon buildup which restricts airflow into the engine when first started. Too little airflow with too much fuel results in flooding. Get that throttle body cleaned properly and you're troubles will be over! Let me know what happens, ok?
Frank asked: Hello, I have a 93 Jetta and i just replaced the clutch friction disc and everything looks good. The problem I started having is that the clutch pedal will not return back up. I thought it was the clutch but it's not. I have gone over several things and can`t figure out what the problem is. Why won't the pedal come back up? Yours truly, Frank.
The Auto Tech: That's a tough one to answer sight unseen Frank, but I'll try... I suspect the problem with your Jetta is within the hydraulic system that is supposed to actuate the clutch as opposed to being caused by the clutch disc itself. The clutch system in the Jetta is operated by a hydraulic master cylinder attached to the pedal and a slave cylinder attached to the transmission. When the pedal is pressed down, hydraulic fluid flows from the master cylinder through a hose to the slave cylinder where the pressure forces a piston and pushrod outward which becomes the actuating force upon the clutch fork. This action should be visible on the side of the transmission. You could prove whether it is a hydraulic problem by having one person watch the clutch slave cylinder while another person presses the pedal to the floor. If nothing moves, the problem is within the hydraulic system. Now you'll need to determine which item is at fault; Possibly a fluid leak, a failed master cylinder, or a bad slave cylinder. In the case of a fluid leak you'd simply look to find the source. Otherwise, a good technician would be your best bet! Take the vehicle to your favorite shop and ask them to check it for you. I'll bet they pinpoint the problem in no time. I hope this helps. Write again if you still have trouble with it, ok?
Jon asked: My 1996 Ram 1500 has a constant squeel coming from the power steering pump. I squirted some WD-40 behind the pulley and the squeel went away for a couple seconds. I was wondering if I had to replace the whole pump, or if there is another alternative.
The Auto Tech: Hi Jon, I think I have good news for you. When you squirted WD-40 behind the pulley you were applying it to the dust lip of the front shaft seal on the pump. That lip itself really wouldn't ever cause a noticeable squeal noise. Odds are that a small amount of the lube contacted the pump's drive belt and that is what stopped the squeal momentarily. Based on that assumption, although the noise sounds like it's coming from the pump, it is actually caused by the belt as it rides on the pump pulley. Take a real good look at the drive belt... is it worn or showing cracks on it's surface? If so, it's time to replace it. It's also important to check the alignment of all the pulleys that the belt is routed around. If the automatic belt tensioner is worn and becoming crooked it cannot maintain proper belt tension and that too will result in a squeal. Whatever you do, don't attempt to "solve" the problem by putting any sort of lube directly on the belt. All that will do is allow the belt to slip which is exactly the opposite of what you need to achieve! Your best bet I'm sure will be to take the vehicle to a good shop in your area and have them take a look at it. They should quickly and easily be able to tell you what is needed to repair it properly. I hope that helps. Let me know what you find out, ok?
Sonia asked: My steering wheel shakes when I drive-this doesn’t always happen and resolves after about 10-15 minutes but it usually causes the whole car to shake as well. The only problems I had prior to this started were flat tires on both passenger sides that were fixed at an auto shop. Is it my alignment? The steering wheel tilts to the left when I’m driving on the expressway.
The Auto Tech: Hi Sonia, Yours is an interesting question that raises a few questions of my own... First, how is it that you had two flat tires on the same side of the car at the same time? Is it possible that you slid into a curb? If so, that would explain the flat tires, the shaking, AND the crooked steering wheel. Odds are, if you did bump a curb (brutal honesty required here), that you've bent one or both of the wheels slightly and you may also have damaged a front tie rod or spindle which resulted in the crooked steering wheel. Or, assuming you didn't hit anything and the flat tires were coincidental, is it possible that you're driving in an icy or snowy area? We often hear complaints of "come-and-go" vibration problems in such conditions. That's because ice and snow can accumulate on the wheels causing a very noticeable imbalance that may suddenly go away when the muck falls off. Keep in mind that we balance tires using various sized lead weights with some as small as .25 oz! Knowing that it should be easy to see how even a fairly small amount of ice or snow can throw the balance way off. If I'm right in the first case, you'll need to take the car to a good shop in your area and have it checked. If there's something damaged in the suspension it can be very dangerous and should not be ignored. If I hit it in the second case, you should probably just buy a sled and wait it out. If I missed it altogether, get it checked immediately as there may be something even more sinister happening like a failing tire, wheel bearing, etc. If you don't have a favorite shop in your area try going to www.acdelco.com and use their "zip code shop finder" button. That will steer you to some quality ACDelco approved shops in your area. I'm biased, of course, but I believe their endorsement is your best assurance of quality service. I hope I've been helpful. Please write again if I can help you further.
Mike asked: Hello; I had to get towed back from Ellensburg WA yesterday (Sunday), because my car was overheating. No actual coolant was lost, no smell of coolant inside vehicle, no steam from engine or on window(s). No oil or coolant "dummy lights" came on, only "check gages" light. Heater blowing cold air. Even after letting car cool for 45 minutes, immediate over heating within 30 seconds. I am convinced it is the thermostat, but am not any where near knowledgeable in auto-mechanics to say for sure. I want to find the location of the thermostat first, and probably even replace it myself, if it's not to complicated with basic tools in an apartment complex. I am asking for your advice here, and need to know what you folks would charge (roughly) to do this job, and also, how would I get the car to you? Do you have a towing service for these situations? I sure could use some good advice here, and your company is highly recommended! Thank you for any reply! :)
The Auto Tech: Hi Mike, There are two possible engines for your Cavalier; a 2.2L or a 2.4L. On the 2.2 the thermostat is located inside a housing at the point where the lower radiator hose attaches to the engine. The most difficult part of the job is getting the cooling system properly filled and bled after replacing the thermostat. It's always a very time consuming process with low-mounted thermostats. The thermostat in the 2.4 engine is a nightmare to change. It's located in a tube that is below the exhaust manifold. The exhaust manifold heat shield must be removed to access the housing bolts by extending a socket around the manifold. If you want to tackle that one yourself you ought to consider getting a shop manual so you can follow the directions. Again, the proper filling and bleeding of the system is still a challenge. Another suggestion -- use an original factory thermostat only. This is a big enough job that youd deeply regret having to re-do the task if you try to save some money on cheap aftermarket parts!
Speaking of cost... I don't generally try to guesstimate without personally looking at the vehicle. With modern cars there are simply too many variables to try and create a sight-unseen quote. Figure somewhere between $120 - $240 depending upon which engine and whatever else might be in the way. Don't quote me on these numbers because as I said, this can all go out the window once we look at the car.
I hope this has helped. Let me know how it goes, ok?
Beth asked: I am looking for some advice. My 2001 Tahoe LT is in desperate need of tires. (The local tire store) cannot replace the tires with the same size that is on it right now. The previous owner of the Tahoe changed out the rims and put on larger 265/75/16 tires. The recommended tire is a 245/75/16. The larger tire exceeds the 3% difference over manufacturer's recommendation (the tire store) is allowed to work with. However, the smaller tire will fit on the custom rim, but is at the limit. I'd like to put the Michelins on my truck, but I'm afraid the smaller tire might look silly on those rims. I plan on driving this truck for a long time. I'm now wondering if I should find original rims and put the recommended size tire back on the truck. I trust your opinion! I have been so pleased with the work you've done on our cars. Thanks, Beth
The Auto Tech: Hi Beth, This is a darned good question, but I'll warn you early that you might not like my answer! The short answer is yes, you should find original rims and put the original factory-size tires back on the Tahoe. The long answer goes back many years into the engineering archives at General Motors. Despite what many folks like to think, the engineers employed by the auto manufacturers are awfully smart people. They've considered every possible use for your vehicle. They've designed the suspension, the tires, the brakes, the vehicle weight distribution, the shocks, the interior, the sway bars, THE SPARE TIRE, etc., all with maximum performance in every situation in mind. Then, the first thing the proud new owner does is throw all that work out the window by changing what are probably the most important items on the car... the tires. Not to mention the wheels! The width, the offset, the flex, EVERYTHING about those wheels and tires are considered and accounted for. Are aftermarket wheels going to work like original? Nope. No way. In fact, you really shouldn't get me started on aftermarket wheels! Handling problems, tire wear, brake pulsation, shoot there just isn't anything bad that they won't contribute to. Here's what it boils down to; If you're really sure you like the look of the wheels and larger tires, and you're willing to sacrifice some performance, mileage, and handling, then with some searching you can no doubt find someone willing to mount them. But if you'd like the rig to run, drive, ride, and handle like it did when it was new... put on the factory stuff. You'll thank me the first time you drive it afterward!
Thanks for writing Beth. Let me know what you decide and how it works out, ok?
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